Why We Crave Bread—and Where to Get It

LAST WEEK, the line outside the 104-year-old Orwasher’s Bakery on the Upper East Side of Manhattan stretched from the register to the end of the block, curling around tree boxes and stoops, much as it did a hundred years ago. Except now, with New York an epicenter of the coronavirus pandemic, customers leave 6 feet between them as they wait to buy a glazed doughnut, bagel, babka or loaf of pumpernickel, wheat, raisin or rye.

Orwasher’s survived the 1918 flu pandemic, the Great Depression, World War II and September 11. Keith…

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